Diamond microdermabrasion may sound like a highly-exclusive treatment reserved for the rich and famous, but its skin-smoothing effects are accessible to anyone who’s willing and able to splurge on a high-end facial. Offered by dermatologists and many spas, diamond microdermabrasion is best known for combatting signs of aging to leave you with a more radiant complexion. Here’s what else you need to know if you’re considering the treatment or simply wondering what this glamourous-sounding skincare treat is all about.
What is diamond microdermabrasion?
Diamond microdermabrasion is a gentle exfoliating treatment used to buff off and suction away dead cells from the surface of the skin. It involves a hand-held device with a rough, diamond-dust coated edge that’s applied directly to the skin by a dermatologist or aesthetician, although you can also purchase an at-home device to DIY. “I think of it like buffing the skin,” says licensed master aesthetician Karen Fernandez, aesthetics department manager of SkinSpirit, a national medical spa. There, aestheticians move the diamond microdermabrasion wand methodically in strokes across the face that can feel scratchy but short of painful, like running your finger over the smoothest side of a nail file. The roughness of the diamond microdermabrasion tool tip can be varied depending on your skin’s needs. Experienced practitioners will also adjust the suction, using less around the eyes and neck or on sensitive skin. “The settings are important to avoid damage to the skin,” Fernandez explains—one reason why this might not be the best treatment to try at home.
Benefits of diamond microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can be used to treat dull skin and discoloration that can make your skin look less youthful, says dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research and associate professor at The Mount Sinai Hospital’s Department of Dermatology. It provides a multitude of additional benefits:
Evens out skin texture
Patients usually notice smoother skin and a more-radiant complexion after treatment, Dr. Zeichner says. It’s not magic: Suction stimulates collagen production, which makes the skin appear smoother and more youthful.
Improves your complexion
Diamond microdermabrasion gently stimulates the skin to promote blood circulation and give the skin an instant glow, according to Fernandez.
Reduces age spots and dark spots left by acne
Removing dead cells from the surface of the skin leaves your face looking more radiant, says Dr. Zeichner.
Improves product absorption
Diamond microdermabrasion clears the way for anti-aging and skin-bleaching products to reach and penetrate the skin more easily.
It can help get gunk out of clogged pores
Removing dead skin cells allows skin to “breathe” which loosens excess oil build up and makes facial extractions easier and less painful, Fernandez says.
Diamond microdermabrasion vs. crystal microdermabrasion
“Crystal-based microdermabrasion devices are effective, but the diamond based devices are really the gold standard because diamond particles are gentler on the skin,” says Dr. Zeichner. There’s another reason why crystal machines are considered second-tier: They can be quite messy. “They require more cleaning and changing of the crystals, and they tend to leave tiny particles in the mouth and ears of the client,” Fernandez says. (This already sounds less glamorous!)
How many diamond microdermabrasion treatments do you need?
You’ll likely need multiple treatments to see results. “It’s best to do them monthly to prevent a build-up of dead skin that can cause skin issues like acne or dullness,” Fernandez says. And be warned that more isn’t more: Dr. Zeichner recommends microdermabrasion no more than once every one to two weeks.
How much does microdermabrasion cost?
Microdermabrasion isn’t covered by insurance and can cost $100 or more per session in clinical settings, Dr. Zeichner says. You’ll likely pay more at a spa, where the treatment might include cleansing, extraction, and the application of various moisturizers and masks.
Risks of diamond microdermabrasion
Especially at high settings, microdermabrasion can lead to skin irritation that Dr. Zeichner likens to sunburn or windburn. In some cases, the skin can even swell, bruise, burn, sting, or become red or extremely sensitive to sunlight. Although no treatment is needed for these symptoms to subside, you can mitigate discomfort by choosing a refutable practitioner or avoiding microdermabrasion altogether if you’re contraindicated—more on that later. After microdermabrasion, it’s important to protect your skin from the sun to reduce the risk of side effects, so sunscreen it up and avoid laying out in the days following your treatment.
Who shouldn’t get diamond microdermabrasion?
Diamond microdermabrasion can be used across most skin types with some exceptions. If you identify with any of the following categories, consider avoiding microdermabrasion or talking to your dermatologist before you book your first treatment:
You have sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea
“In these cases, it can lead to skin barrier disruption and cause more harm than good,” Dr. Zeichner says.
You have skin that scars easily
In these cases, microdermabrasion can actually increase your risk of developing more dark spots, according to Dr. Zeichner.
You’re prone to cold sores
Microdermabrasion can irritate sensitive skin around the mouth and trigger an outbreak. (Your doctor can prescribe a prophylactic antiviral if this is a concern for you.)
You typically apply retinol or exfoliating acids
“They brighten skin on their own and can make the skin more sensitive to irritation from the microdermabrasion,” Dr. Zeichner says, suggesting microdermabrasion would be redundant and cause undo irritation.
You have thin or loose skin
While delicate skin can benefit from the exfoliation in theory, the suction involved in diamond microdermabrasion can compromise it and lead to broken or distended capillaries that can take a few days to heal, Fernandez says.
You have severe acne
Fernandez warns that active pustule acne is a contraindication for microdermabrasion since the treatment can irritate sensitized skin and spread bacteria to worsen your condition.
You’re taking isotretinoin, Accutane, or another dehydrating medication to treat severe acne
Because certain topical and oral remedies can cause dry skin, impact wound healing, and generally make skin more sensitive to irritation, microdermabrasion isn’t a great idea while you’re on them—and can even lead to scarring.
The bottom line on diamond microdermabrasion
All in all, diamond microdermabrasion trumps crystal microdermabrasion and is both suitable and beneficial for most skin types. If you’re looking for more radiant skin—and hey, who isn’t?!—diamond microdermabrasion can make a real difference, especially if you can afford to treat yourself regularly. Next up: What Types of Birth Control Can Treat Acne?
Sources
Dr. Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research and associate professor at The Mount Sinai Hospital’s Department of DermatologyKaren Fernandez licensed master aesthetician at SkinSpirit Microdermabrasion: Overview. American Academy of Dermatology Association.
